Olympic Wildflowers

I’ve had many adventures in the NE Olympics over the years, but one spot that has always stuck out to me is Deception Basin. Logan and I visited this beautiful basin in 2016, climbing Mt. Mystery and Deception. While Mt. Deception is still one of the worst choss piles I’ve ever climbed, Deception Basin was very much a place I wanted to return to.

Since I was already visiting my grandma for her birthday, it was a perfect summer weekend to explore more of the Olympics high country. My route idea was to do a loop from the Upper Dungeness Trailhead to Constance Pass, off trail to Deception Basin, and back on the Royal Basin trail. The main catch was that I had to make it back to Kingston by 6:30 to catch the fast ferry back to Seattle, so I could bike home to Issaquah before dark. It seemed like a reasonable plan.

I started with the long, gradual climb towards Marmot and Constance Pass. The river grade was mellow, with plenty of beautiful swimming holes.

The trail climbs steadily towards Marmot Pass, and then Constance Pass. Even in the trees, there were great wildflowers and occasional views of the peaks. In the cool morning shade, this part was wonderful. I was moving surprisingly well considering I had run 4 miles total in the last month, even running some gradual uphills.

Eventually, the trail enters rockier terrain beneath Warrior and Inner Constance.

The section above Home Lake had the most vibrant and diverse flowers of the entire trip!

As I climbed steeply up above Constance Pass, I got my first clear view to the south. A marine layer had wrapped around the east side of the Olympics. The top was at about 5,000 ft, so peaks like the Brothers were sticking out. The clouds were actually pouring over ridge lines and floating westward up the Dosewallips.

I left the trail in Sunnybrook Meadow and started traversing towards Mystery. I probably should have stayed on the trail a little longer, descending, before climbing up more gradual meadows. Instead, I ended up ascending steep dirt and flowers, following hoof prints. Either way, I made it to and flat, barren ridge line with a clear view to Mt. Mystery. It was incredible how quickly I left behind the lush wildflowers, and entered this rocky wasteland.

I followed the ridge towards Mystery, over some ups and downs. My goal was to get to the saddle just east of Mt. Mystery above the Mystery Glacier. I suspected this would be the crux of the trip. As I got closer, I saw a steep snow or dirt descent into the basin beneath Mystery, followed by a very steep dirt climb out of it. Without traction, I would have to take the dirt both up and down.

I began to wonder if I should go up over the summit. I remember climbing Mystery from the saddle above the glacier, so the descent should not be too difficult. The south ridge, which I was currently on, was supposedly the standard way up Mystery. Looking at my watch, I was only five hours into my day. It would add some time, but I was well on target for a sub-10 hour loop, which was my requirement for catching the ferry back to Seattle. Why not go for it?

Although this corner of the Olympics is known for its basalt, the entire off trail section had been Olympic sedimentary rock to this point. However, this began to change quickly as the rock progressed through basalt, and even some other blocky rock towards the summit.

I had virtually no beta on the south ridge, but I followed my nose and the sporadic cairn. I traversed the left (west) side of the ridge for a while before cutting back right through a notch for the final 100 ft scramble on the east face. There were a few moves harder than class 3, but the rock was pretty solid for those, just as I remembered.

After down climbing the summit block, I continued down the east face. Coming from above, it was impossible to see a lower cliff band. I definitely passed through it in a suboptimal spot, but I imagine it was much easier last time, approaching from below. I had to do some chossy down climbing and traversing. I was greatly relieved when I got to the glacier.

This small glacier was nearly dead 9 years ago, but has yet to completely give up the ghost. I saw a few small cracks in the snow and bare ice beneath. But rocks and sticking out in more and more areas.

There’s a beautiful gravel bar right beneath the lake, where Logan and I camped long ago. I ran into a group of guys also camping here. We talked for a while, as they were doing my route in reverse. Then I began my final climb of the day.

Every time I transitioned from the gorgeous green meadows to the chossy alpine slopes, I was reminded that the true magic of the Olympics is not the peaks but the high meadows between. While the Cascades are GOATed for summit views and dramatic peaks, the Olympics have pretty special meadows and basins.

I took one last break in Royal Basin before heading out. The trail was busy with backpackers and hikers. I forgot how rocky and slow this trail is, until the final few miles when it becomes a beautiful forest trail.

My legs felt shockingly good on the jog out, and I even was able to run short uphills in the last few miles! In fact, it was the best I’ve felt on a mountain run in two years! The tapering is working…

This loop was a really high quality route with nice trail access, no real bushwhacking, and manageable choss! While the off trail section was fun and novel, my favorite parts were the blooming wildflowers and trickling creeks. Mid summer in the Olympics is something special!

Notes:

• My route was 25 miles and 8.8k ft gain. It took my 9.5 hours, moving a little faster than I typically do.
• The crux is definitely getting around or over Mt. Mystery. I think the low route would have been manageable, but annoying, especially with crampons for descending the steep snow. Going over was also okay, but it added quite a bit of gain. Another option would be to descend much lower and cross the Hal Foss / Fricaba col.
• The Mystery Glacier was all snow, but tiny bits of ice were starting to become visible. I was fine without traction, but that could change later in the season. The upper section is probably 30 degrees.
• The easiest place to cross between Deception and Royal Basin is east of Snifter Spire, and slightly east of and above the low col east of Snifter Spire.
• I think this route works in either direction. I’m not sure if Mystery would have been easier the other way, or the way I went.