Across the Icefields

The most famous ski traverse in the Canadian Rockies is likely the Wapta Traverse. With a series of sought after huts, it is a popular multi day outing, but it is also a very reasonable day trip. While we did not have explicit objectives for our Canada trip, the Wapta Traverse was definitely top of mind. If we got stable weather and fast travel conditions, I thought it would be fun to do the classic traverse!

As our first truly bluebird weather window approached at the end of our two week trip, we made plans for the Wapta. Although the traditional direction is north to south, largely because that creates a net downhill of about 1,000 ft, we thought that going south to north would provide for better (north facing) skiing, just like how we did the Spearhead Traverse in reverse. Additionally, it would allow us to drop a car at the finish the day before when we skied Mt. Hector. Thus, no car shuttle would be required in the morning!

We parked at the Great Divide Lodge and got started right around first light. Since we were skinning up the exit luge track, it was slightly off camber and extremely slippery in the early morning, but we found our groove once reaching the smooth flats of Sherbrooke Lake.

The first climb is extremely long and gradual, but we plowed ahead with good pace, eager to reach the alpine. Stoke was building quickly as we entered the sun.

After many hours, we finally reached the start of our first icefield: the Waputik Icefield. Except for the occasional human, scale was impossible to discern. These glaciers were of the scale none of us had ever experienced – miles long and very, very flat.

We passed the Scott Duncan Hut, which is perched high on a rocky ridge, and started skinning across the Waputik. The upward slope was almost imperceptible, yet we had 1400 ft to gain on the glacier! The views actually are not that great on this section because the glacier is concave. This 3 mile slog was probably the low point of the trip, as the next col never seemed to get any nearer. This section would be much more enjoyable gliding downhill, but then you would have long climbs going the other direction also…

We were eager to transition to skiing once we reached Balfour col. The snow was wind affected up high, but we found decent powder lower down. The icefall on Mt. Balfour was stunning, although we were sure to keep plenty of distance from its hanging seracs!

Down at the Balfour hut, we took a lunch break. These huts are in such incredibly exposed locations. It would be wonderful to stay at them, but also incredibly disorienting in bad visibility, and uncomfortable in bad weather.

The next climb up the Vulture Glacier was only slightly less mind numbing than the Waputik Icefield. Fortunately, the temperature was surprisingly comfortable all day, and it never really felt too hot. There was even still powder on the south facing Vulture Galcier!

Finally, we reached a small ridge separating the Vulture Glacier from the Wapta Icefield proper. Here, glaciers stretched for many miles in multiple directions. Although it has shrunk considerably, it still covers by my measurement over 16 square miles! That’s not that far off from the total glacial area in the entire states of Montana or Wyoming!

At this point, we were pretty tired of flat skinning. My boots still needed punching, so my feet were in pain. We were all grateful to rip our skins and start an incredible two mile long gliding descent across the icefield! No real turns were made, but the effortless gliding and wonderful scenery were awesome.

We had one final trick up our sleeves. Instead of simply continuing across the Wapta to Peyto Lake, we skinned 1000 ft up the ridge to Rhondda. This would give us a longer north facing fall line descent towards Peyto. But before we had to worry about skiing, we were enthralled by the expansive views of the entire Wapta Icefield.

It was both our first completely bluebird day and final ski day of our trip. Looking out at the infinite mountains and glaciers, I could not think of a better way to finish. At times, it had been a frustrating trip, with challenging conditions. But I am grateful to have ended on a high note like this.

The Canadian Rockies are a range of extremes – vertical rock walls, and flat icecaps. They are so striking and different from the mountains I am used to.

When we clicked into our skis, we were treated to a nearly 3,000 ft of sweet north facing boot top powder. If there was any debate as to whether or not it was worth going in the atypical direction, all debate was quelled. The Peyto Glacier provided a massive amphitheater for what was most certainly the longest (by distance) powder run of my life.

We had one short skin before our final ski down to Peyto Lake. While there was a short section of rocks in the river delta we had to walk, there was a remarkably consistent slightly downhill grade, allowing us to efficiently glide all the way to the lake.

As we reached Peyto Lake, we found that the lake was refreezing in the shade. Given how exhausted we all were of flat skinning, it was an easy decision to skate! I always dream of opportunities to apply my nordic skills to backcountry, and this was the perfect opportunity. I glided across the lake at 8 minute mile pace, arriving at the far end of the lake right as the sun was going behind the mountains. From there, we only had a 15 minute skin back to the highway.

The Wapta Traverse was the perfect way to end two weeks of skiing around the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. It is definitely the most “traversey” of any ski traverse I have done, but we still got one giant, epic powder run! The most unique aspect of this route is simply the incredible scale of the glaciers and alpine terrain around it. The Canadian Rockies are an amazing range, with the Wapta Icefield right at its heart.

Notes:

• Our variation of the Wapta Traverse was 30 miles and 9200 ft gain. It took us 13 hours at a pretty relaxed pace for us.
• The glaciers were really well filled in, with no visible crevasses or even sags to cross. Still, we roped up while skinning, something we don’t do in the Cascades typically, because of the sketchy reputation of Continental glaciers.
• This traverse, or the Bow-Yoho, is great for those who enjoy long walks, easy descents, and great views. Overall, I thought the Spearhead Traverse had equal scenery and better skiing, but I still really enjoyed the Wapta. There’s nothing even remotely comparable in Washington because our mountains are so much steeper and denser.